Hvar
Field Notes from Hvar
Hvar was a definite highlight on that multi-centre family holiday through Croatia. We did a fair bit of moving around, but Hvar was one of those spots where you could just slow down and let things unfold. The town itself has this way of drawing you into its quieter corners, especially away from the main square. We spent a fair bit of time just wandering the back alleys, which is where you always find the interesting stuff, where the light plays differently and things feel a bit more real.
The old stone alleyways, with their closed shutters and the occasional potted plant, felt like stepping back a few centuries. You’d stumble across an outdoor restaurant tucked into a narrow passage, or a little cafe spilling out onto stone steps, all framed by vibrant bougainvillea. Even a simple, plain white chimney stack against that classic clear blue Hvar sky could catch your eye. Climbing up towards the old castle, past a quiet stone church, gave you a different perspective on all those red-tiled roofs stretching down to the water.
It’s a place where the light does a lot of the work for you, whether it’s that soft evening glow hitting the main square or the deep, inviting shade of a cool alleyway on a hot afternoon. You’re always finding something, often when you’re not even looking for it, just sitting there waiting while you’re doing something else entirely.








